History and Future of Nishijin Textile
Origin of Nishijin-ori
Nishijin-ori is a textile that has been developed over approximately 1,500 years in Kyoto's cultural climate. It has its origins in the sericulture and weaving techniques brought by the Hata clan, a powerful immigrant family, who settled in Kyoto around the 4th or 5th century. It has continued to develop alongside various influential cultural elements such as Kyoto's court culture, Buddhist culture, warrior class, and townspeople, and has developed a unique beauty and advanced craftsmanship.
The History of Nishijin-ori (1): The Begining
The History of Nishijin-ori (2): Heian Culture and Nishijin-ori
How Nishijin-ori Got Its Name
Nishijin-ori came to be known as such after the Onin War (1467–1477). During the war, the artisans of Nishijin-ori fled to areas like Osaka and Sakai for safety. After the conflict, they returned and settled in the area where the western army had camped during the war. As a result, the textiles woven there came to be called Nishijin-ori, named after the "west camp."
The History of Nishijin-ori (4) The Origin of the Name
Development of Nishijin-ori
While the silk industry began long before, with Kyoto already serving as a production center during the Heian period, the name 'Nishijin Brocade' emerged only after the Onin War (1476-1477), a devastating civil war that ravaged Kyoto. During the conflict, Nishijin-ori weavers fled to Osaka, but as peace was restored, they returned to Kyoto and resettled in the war-torn Nishijin area—literally meaning 'Western Position.' There, they revived their production and business. Embracing innovative techniques brought from the continent, Nishijin-ori flourished, reaching its zenith during the early Edo period.
However, in the latter half of the Edo period, a series of consecutive famines, fires, and natural disasters destabilized society, and sumptuary laws were frequently enacted. The subsequent relocation of the capital to Tokyo during the Meiji era further contributed to a decline, leading to a critical downturn. Yet, the industry experienced a revival with the introduction of the Jacquard loom from Lyon, France, which breathed new life into this traditional craft.
The History of Nishijin-ori (3): The Era of the Warriors
The History of Nishijin-ori (5): In Full Bloom (Edo Period 1603 - 1868)
New Path for Nishijin-ori
The introduction of Jacquard looms dramatically accelerated the weaving process, enabling the production of a more diverse array of high-quality textiles. Although this innovation initially spurred increased demand, the tradition of wearing kimono waned, particularly after World War II, leading to a decline in consumption. Consequently, the once vibrant sounds of weaving in the Nishijin area have grown increasingly rare.
Today, in order to preserve this rich heritage, they are pioneering new avenues by adapting Nishijin textiles into a variety of products, including ties, accessories, interior textiles, and refined décor. As part of this initiative, Nishijin Brocade Arts and Crafts Asagi reimagines Nishijin textiles, seamlessly blending traditional techniques with modern technology and innovative designs to create exquisite decorative pieces for the interior.
The History of Nishijin-ori (7): Kyoto after the Restoration
The History of Nishijin-ori (8): 20th Century and the Future