The History of Nishijin-ori (2) Heian Culture and Nishijin-ori

It is difficult for us to imagine today that silk was once traded for its weight in gold in ancient times. Silk was so precious that it brought immense wealth to ruling powers worldwide. It was even used as currency, reflecting the trust ancient societies placed in its value. Consequently placed sericulture and silk weaving under state control, a practice also seen in Japan during the Nara and Heian periods.

Thus, the history of Nishijin-ori, de facto, began when Kyoto became the center of the Heian dynasty. In Heian-kyo, an office called Oribenotsukasa was established under the Ministry of the Treasury to oversee silk weaving. This office was located in what is now part of the Nishijin area. The luxurious garments worn by the imperial family and aristocracy were woven in and around this office. Toward the end of the Heian period, the office was dissolved due to the weakening of the Ritsuryō system, after which Nishijin weavers continued their craft independently, both cooperating and competing with one another.

The area highlighted in blue marks the location of the Oribenotsukasa office, just outside the imperial palace (marked with a red square), near the intersection of what are today called Horikawa Street and Nakadachi-uri Street.