The History of Nishijin-ori (3) The Era of Warriors

Japanese history is complex, particularly when considering that the imperial dynasty often existed in a realm distinct from the actual political power wielded by the shogunate.The Japanese imperial family stands as one of the longest-surviving dynasties in the world, with over 1,500 years of documented history. However, the period during which the emperor wielded more than a symbolic role was relatively brief. Following the conclusion of the Heian period and extending to the end of the Edo period, Japan entered the era of the warrior class, with the shogun occupying the apex of the hierarchical structure. This era witnessed three distinct shogunates: Kamakura (1192-1333), Muromachi (1336-1573), and Edo (1603-1868), each named after the locales where the shogun resided.

The shift in political authority heralded a transformation in the practitioners of the prevailing culture. While Heian culture was characterized by an aristocratic flair of elegance, subtlety, and opulence, the warrior class tended to embody a simpler and more robust aesthetic. Over time, however, the warrior class increasingly adopted elements of aristocracy. As political stability took root, the lives of the shogun became more refined, leading some to withdraw from the rigors of governance in favor of an immersive dedication to cultural pursuits.

After having long served the imperial family as master silk producers during the Heian Period, the Nishijin weavers gained independence from the constraints of the Ritsuryō system as the Heian governmental structure gradually dissolved. They established their own workshops, thereby continuing to produce exquisite textiles throughout this prolonged period under warrior rule, despite experiencing various fluctuations in fortune.During the Kamakura period, Nishijin-ori weavers congregated in an area still known as “otoneri  (in the map below),” eventually organizing themselves into a structure resembling a guild.