The History of Nishijin-ori (5) In Full Bloom (Edo Period 1603 - 1868)

During the Edo period, particularly in the first half, when society was relatively stable and prosperous, wealthy merchants began to wear Nishijin-ori garments. This led to the rise of a luxurious fashion culture. In the Genroku era, thanks to the developing consumer culture and the newly expanding national sericulture industry, the Nishijin-ori industry flourished, not only with the production of luxurious fabrics but also with more popular textiles such as chirimen and kasuri, making it the center of Japan's silk production industry.

However, around the middle of the Edo period, society became increasingly unstable due to consecutive famines, fires, and natural disasters. The imbalance in trade with China, driven by rising demand for imported silk thread, also contributed to the government imposing sumptuary laws. The Nishijin area was also hit by great fires, famines, and a surging price of raw silk.

Interestingly—and perhaps understandably—people's desire for fashion was not easily curbed by such laws. They decorated the reverse side of garments, usually invisible from the outside, with bright colors, luxurious patterns, and fabrics. This practice, known as ‘iki’ (stylish and smart), reflected a new aesthetic sense embraced by the Edo people.