The History of Nishijin-ori (7): Kyoto After the Restoration

As Japan advanced toward industrialization and centralized governance with Tokyo as the new capital, Kyoto found itself at a crossroads. The relocation of the Emperor and his court to Tokyo diminished Kyoto's proximity to imperial culture, creating new challenges, including competition from emerging weaving towns like Tango and Kiryu.

Nishijin-ori artisans responded with remarkable agility. In 1872, they sent three young men to Lyon, France, to acquire cutting-edge techniques and knowledge. Upon their return, they introduced the Jacquard loom to Japan for the first time.

Invented by the Frenchman Joseph Marie Jacquard, the loom automated intricate pattern weaving using punched cards. This innovation, combined with the plentiful supply of domestic raw silk, revolutionized the Nishijin-ori industry. It enhanced efficiency, democratized access to these exquisite textiles, and made them more affordable and widely available.

The adoption of the Jacquard loom was swift and transformative, replacing the tall looms that had been in use for over 1,000 years. Within decades, tall looms had all but vanished from the Nishijin area. Reconstructing one for the 555th anniversary of the Onin War—a conflict from which the name "Nishijin" originates—was a significant challenge due to the lack of surviving examples. However, with only scarce historical documents, artisans successfully reconstructed the tall loom, underscoring how decisive and complete this shift had been.