The Technology of Nishijin Weaving (２): Sorabiki-bata

For many, the term sorabiki-bata (空引機) may be unfamiliar. Unlike the more compact takahata (高機), or upright looms used for tsuzure-ori, the sorabiki-bata is a large and complex loom. It features an upper-level structure dedicated to manipulating the warp threads.

It is believed that this loom was invented in China around the 6th or 7th century and introduced to Japan during the Nara period, though there are no definitive historical documents confirming this. Some of the preserved textiles in the Shōsōin repository are thought to have been woven on such looms—likely of Chinese origin—but their existence does indicate that Japanese people at the time were already familiar with such advanced textile works. By the Heian period, depictions of the sorabiki-bata can be found in scrolls such as the Nenjū Gyōji Emaki (Illustrated Scroll of Annual Events), suggesting that the loom was actively used in Kyoto.

What’s remarkable is that this elaborate loom continued to be used in the Nishijin weaving district until the late 19th century, when the Jacquard loom was introduced from France. If the sorabiki-bata truly arrived during the Nara period, it remained in use for nearly a thousand years—an extraordinary lifespan. Its rapid disappearance upon the arrival of the Jacquard loom speaks volumes about the revolutionary nature of the latter.

Today, the sorabiki-bata has entirely fallen out of use. Few physical examples remain, perhaps due to how abruptly it was replaced by the Jacquard loom. It was reconstructed for the 555th anniversary of Nishijin Weaving, based on historical documents and illustrations, and only a handful of artisans today know how to operate it. Working examples may occasionally be seen at demonstrations during special events.

So, what exactly did this loom look like in operation?

Take a look at the photo below.

You’ll notice a person sitting atop the loom. This person is responsible for lifting specific warp threads to create the design, according to the pattern. Hanging down from above are long heddle cords (sōkō ito), each with an eyelet through which a single warp thread is threaded. The person doesn’t choose which threads to lift manually each time—instead, the warp threads have already been grouped using a system of guiding cords according to the design. By pulling these horizontal cords, the correct set of warp threads rises automatically.

The weaver below passes the weft thread in accordance with the pattern, timing their actions to the precise moment the warp threads are lifted. Often, several layers of weft threads are used for a single line, and sometimes metallic foil is also woven in. Near the weaver’s feet, you may notice several bamboo rods—these control the movement of the dozen or so rectangular frames at the front of the loom. These frames are also linked to the warp threads and work in conjunction with the heddles to manipulate the warp thread positions. The mechanism is astoundingly complex—one can’t help but wonder who conceived of it. And yet, for over a thousand years, this was how patterned textiles were created.

Naturally, textiles woven using this time-consuming and labor-intensive method were expensive and reserved for the elite.

The machine that ultimately automated this astonishing process was the Jacquard loom, invented in 19th-century France.